How to Select Sump Pump Switch

• What brand and model of sump pump do you currently own?
• How many amps does the pump use during operation?

• Is the sump pump float switch attached or external (unattached) to the pump?
• Are you satisfied with your sump pump and only wish to replace the switch? Or would you rather replace the entire sump pump?
• What size is your sump basin? Do a primary and backup sump pump easily fit with the attached float switch?
• How much water must be pumped from your pit per minute or hour during heavy rain storms?
• Do you live in an area where a high concentrate of calcium carbonate exists in the ground water?
• Are you satisfied with your current and prior float switch types? Have they been reliable?
• Do you replace your tether and vertical float switch every two years as manufacturers recommend if the sump pump runs frequently?
• Do you have to remove your sump pump from the sump pit to replace the switch when it fails? Is it easy to replace during a heavy rain storm?
• Is your sump basin too crowded and the float switch gets caught or hung up on the pit wall?

• Does your sump pump run too frequently because of a high water table and the distance between the ‘on’ and ‘off’ switch is very limited?
• Have you wanted to install a water softener, but have been advised not to because it will impact the operation of your existing sump pump?
• Have you tried electronic pump switches before and they don’t work with your three-quarter horse power sump pump because the power of the motor empties the sump pit in less than four seconds but the switch is set to run the pump for ten seconds regardless if water remains in the pit or not?
• Have you wanted to try an electronic switch but have not because you believe you would need a plumber to install it because of complex installation?
• Have you wished there was a sump pump float switch with a lifetime warranty?

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We live in a high water table area, so have added additional protection against flooding by installing a second sump basin. We have three primary sump pumps; one of the primary pumps can also run as a backup with the SUMPRO power unit, and one battery backup sump pump. With the HC6000 we determine what the ‘on’ and ‘off’ height is for our sump pumps so they do not run as much as they did when we used the manufacturers float switches with preset ‘on’ and ‘off’ positions.

We are happy to support a product ‘Made in the USA’. And best of all, the HC6000 and the HC8000 electronic switches have a lifetime warranty.

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Both electronic sump pump switches have the following desirable and reliable features. They are ……..

• Compatible for use with sump pumps requiring less than 14 amps to run.
• Adaptable for use with internally wired state sump pump float switches (those internally wired to the sump pump) and those which are external (unattached) from the pump. They both have piggyback switches which allow the sump pump motor to be plugged into the piggyback electronic switch.
• Can replace a manual or automatic tether or vertical float switch sump pump type. See the installation instruction for replacement with either type.
• Takes no additional space in the sump pump pit. The probe(s) attach to the discharge pipe.
• Not affected by contaminated ground water – salt brine, wash water or calcium carbonate.
• No moving parts to wear out.

• Easy to install since removal of existing sump pump is not required. The electronic switch is external to the pump. It is not attached to the existing sump. Instead it is attached to the discharge pipe and the pump motor cord is plugged into the piggyback electronic switch.
• Lifetime warranty.

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It is important that you consider the difference between these two electronic switches so you buy the one best for your water needs. Here is the difference between the two switches.

• No ‘ten second’ run time once the pump starts emptying the sump pit. The pump shuts off as soon as the water level is below the bottom probe.
• The ‘low’ point and ‘high’ point can be set by the homeowner. There are two probes. One of the probes is placed toward the bottom of the discharge pipe, yet above the pump impeller so the pump does not run dry. The second probe is placed at the highest point you wish the sump pump to turn on and begin removing water from the pit. It is possible to change the ‘low’ and ‘high’ points once the electronic probes are attached to the discharge pipe. Just nudge them very slightly ‘up’ or ‘further down’ the discharge pipe.
• The HC6000 works well for those who live in high water table areas and those who use three quarter horse power pumps. The minimum amount of water remaining in the sump pit can be controlled by the lower probe and the pump will shut off when the water reaches the tip of the lower probe so the pit will not pump dry and burn out the pump motor.

• Only one probe. Therefore only the ‘on’ water level can be set. The probe is placed as high as the homeowner wishes the water to rise before the sump pump turns on and removes the water from the pit.
• Ten second run time. The switch will activate the pump to run ten seconds after the pump turns on. This electronic switch works best only with one-quarter and one-third horse power pumps because it usually takes a one-quarter and one-third HP pump about ten seconds to empty the sump pit. If you have a one-half horse power pump or larger the HC6000 is the best choice for you because there is no ‘ten-second run time’. The pump will stop running when the water is just below the bottom sensor tip. In fact the best choice is the HC6000 for all sump pump sizes because the homeowner can control the ‘on’ and ‘off’ height for the pump. It is important the pump stop running before the water goes below the pump impeller.

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Check the HC6000 and the HC8000 out now. You will be glad you did.

For your convenience, the purchase links with more product detail are included on the right.